Setting New Climbing Routes
The Routes
Other Beta

If you're looking for world class limestone rock climbing on a variety of routes, you won't do much better than the climbing along the Pecos River at Continental Ranch. With more than 115 routes as of January 1, 2002, the climbing is as diverse as the landscape itself. Steep, heavily pocketed walls, vertical face routes with a variety of features, and aesthetic crack climbs are all available.

Ratings range from 5.7 to 5.13, with the majority of the routes at 5.10 and 5.11. Cliff heights range from 50 to 100 feet, with plans to develop 200- to 300-foot cliffs soon. Most routes are bolt-protected sport climbs; a handful of trad cracks are also available. Hundreds of boulder problems are scattered along the river -- many of which are waiting for first ascents!

We have walls that provide shade or sun for regulating the heat or cold. And because climbing at the ranch is still in its infancy, the potential is there for hundreds of routes to be added. We welcome experienced route setters to come put up new routes. You are, however, responsible for following Bolting Guidelines as established by the bolting committee. Please read and follow these guidelines. Failing to do so could lead to the removal of your hardware.

For guided rock climbing and adventure outings we recommend Rock-About Guiding Service. Contact them via or, go to www.rock-about.com.

Maps and Directions

Vicinity Map
Ranch Map
Directions to Camping and Climbing

Route Locations

Weir Dam
(click here for pdf)
Weir dam area is best accessed from the east at the trailhead above the Planetarium. The access at the Weir dam trailhead is by a long ladder at the dam, or better to rappel in from the route called "Straight Arrow" located in a low angle dihedral. Keep this in mind if you have a dog.

Painted Canyon
(click here for pdf)

Emerald Pools
(click here for pdf)

The Butt
(click here for pdf)

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Setting New Climbing Routes

• All new routes need to be installed by experienced and knowledgeable route setters. You must read and understand the Continental Ranch Bolting Guidelines before installing any route. Routes will be reviewed by the Continental Ranch Bolting Committee. Failure to bolt safe ethical routes will be subject to the removal or altering of the route.
• Use only quality hardware manufactured by reputable companies. No homemade hardware. Use 1/2" expansion bolts. Top anchors should have 3/8" quicklinks with 3/8" chains, or use Fixe Ring Anchors.
• Please do not bolt any route that is SAFELY trad protectable. Please install Rap anchors on trad routes.
• No obscene or offensive route names.
• Once route is approved, installed, and opened, please inform committee of its name, rating, and first ascent so that it may be entered into the next guide.

Other Beta

• Trad routes all have rap anchors. Recommend Cams and TriCams for trad routes.
• A 60 meter rope is helpful for the 100 foot routes.
• Weir dam area is best accessed from the east at the trailhead above the Planetarium. The access at the Weir dam trailhead is by a long ladder at the dam, or better to rappel in from the route called "Straight Arrow" located in a low angle dihedral. Keep this in mind if you have a dog.

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